Scoring is the process of cutting a number of parallel vertical lines in the bark a piece of gouged, shaped, and profiled cane. These cuts make it easier to form the cane into a cylindrical tube and help prevent cracking during the forming process. Different reed makers have various theories of scoring, involving different numbers, spacing, length, and depth of score marks. There is also quite a variety of tools one can choose from to actually perform the scoring, ranging from a simple utility knife to Rieger’s quite expensive scoring machine. The tool I have used for years is close to the inexpensive end of this spectrum. It is simply a tap (a tool for cutting screw threads) mounted in a file handle.
I certainly can’t claim to have invented this — I saw Professor James Lotz at Tennessee Tech University demonstrate such a tool when I was a budding reed maker in high school. A number of tool companies sell something substantially similar. I don’t remember what the original tap and handle cost (I’ve been using the same scoring tool for about 15 years). But I recently made a second one to keep in my office, and the parts came to a whopping $8. Here are a tap and handle similar to the ones that I recently purchased. If you’re lucky, the tap will just fit snugly in the handle — my first tool went together that way with a simple friction fit. If you’re unlucky (as I was with my recent parts), you’ll have to glue the tap into the handle to keep it in place. No big deal. There are probably higher quality file handles out there with more consistent construction, but this is what my local hardware store had.
The specific size of the tap isn’t critical — you just need something with cutting teeth (close up at right) with the spacing you want to achieve in your scoring lines. I use a tap for cutting 10–24 threads; some commercial scoring tools, such as the one by 2XReed, look to have a bigger tap. If you actually buy your tap at a hardware store rather than online, you can just looks at all the different choices and pick one that looks right to you.
To use the tool, first put your piece of cane on an easel. Then, hold the tool perpendicular to the cane at the point you want to start your score lines — I like to start just above the second wire. Make sure that you have the edge of one set of cutting teeth lined up to dig into the cane, apply a bit of pressure, and draw the tool straight down your cane. I like to plant my thumb on the back end of the easel and use a sort of closing-the-hand motion to help keep my lines straight. One pass with the tool with score about half the width of the cane. To score the other side, just repeat the action on the other side. You can put one tooth of the scoring tool the last existing line to keep the proper spacing and direction of your score marks.
And there you have it: eight or nine perfectly parallel score marks in a matter of a few seconds. Above right you can see a piece of cane after a couple of passes with the scoring tool. I went a little too high on the left side of this piece of cane, but it’s not a big deal. It does take a little practice to align the cutting teeth properly, and also to make the first cut perfectly straight. But getting the hang of it doesn’t take very long, and pretty quickly you’ll be getting very consistent results. The one drawback of this method is that it doesn’t quite cut as deeply as I’d like; I like my scoring to go all the way through the cane at the back end. So, I typically deepen the marks with a utility knife—another pretty quick operation.
12 Responses
Thank you so much for posting this! I’m going to try it today.
Great! I’d be interested to know what you think after you’ve given it a try.
Great idea, saves time and effort with even scores.
Thank you for this great post!
Do you know which diametre the tap approximately is, or for which screw?
I mention this is the post – I’m using a #10–24 tap. But you can experiment with different sizes to find one that cuts the number of lines you want.
Thanks, I didn ‘t know this is the size ;D
Ah, no worries! It’s one of the nonsensical sizes that we Americans seem to cling to for no good reason. The tap appears to be about 4.5mm in diameter, if that helps.
Yes this helps
Thank you very much!
To prevent rust, get a tap that is made of chrome-moly or plated.
Has anyone yet tried this tap you suggest on Amazon above with the handle to see if they fit together ok? Just wondered if anyone’s given you feedback as of yet.
They’ll fit, it’s just a question of whether it’ll be a snug enough fit to use without glue. The taps are a standard size, so that parts is predictable. The file handles are also basically standard, but aren’t made to as tight a tolerance. But it’ll work, either way. Using glue doesn’t affect the functionality of the tool.
I have made handles for my students’ tools-knives (wedge razors), mandrels and now this tool by turning a 1–1/4 inch hardwood dowel on a wood lathe. After finishing the handles, I drill a hole of the right size in the smaller end of the handle, insert the tool’s metal part and sett it in with quick-drying epoxy cement available at any hardware store. Each handle is about 4 inches long, so you can get quite a few from a 3 foot dowel.